HE SAID
Thursday 8/23
Le Mont Saint Michel!
An 0820 tour departure from Place de Quebec. But first, petit (actually huge!) dejeuner at La Reine Mathilde just across the small river in the center of Bayeux. Chatted up several fellow Americans headed for Normandy, etc.
An early departure with guide Sabina, her understudy, and a couple from Dallas, driving ~90 minutes SW through the Norman countryside and villages, passing orchards, stone houses attached to stables, a chateau or two, a huge manor, manicured plowed fields and cornfields, lush green pastures with the many cows of Normandy, and scattered clusters of huge white wind turbines. PLUS! A brief stop on the narrow country road for an Exceptional Convoi with motorcycle guards with flashing lights – a huge yacht taking up both lanes and at least 30 feet high.
Caught our first glimpse of le Mont Saint Michel out on the coast from a hilltop 20 km away! From there, in/out of sight through the fields and villages through the Normandy Bocage. Soon, arrival at the huge car park – still ~3km away, but an easy ~45 min walk along the levee or below on the salt marsh paths. We joined the huge line waiting for the shuttle buses. Boarded after about 30 min wait (bus was specially designed for driving at both ends, never having to waste time turning around!).
On le Mont by 1040. We followed Sabine up the less travelled backside pathway to the Abbey. Low tide is ~1300 today with the water already 8km to the west on the horizon of the grey sand flats, turning at nearly the 10km point. Next high tide at 6:25pm, a “regular” one that would not cover the final roadway to the entrance, but still a 48 foot tidal rise. A couple weeks from now in Sep, the full moon at equinox will bring a high tide making le Mont an island for a couple of hours without a walking passage.
The flats are dangerous! Many have died in the quicksand or failed to outrun the speed the tide comes in (faster than galloping horses!) or its power – one of the most powerful in the world! Walking on the flats anywhere except immediately around the base of le Mont requires a guide. You can walk out to the huge rock outcrop (like le Mont) – ~90 min each way.
On up the many steps (380 total from the base) into the Abbey to meet our Abbey guide. He was MOST enthusiastic, lots of humor, and very good. Quizzes nonstop, especially about knowing where you were geographically within the Abbey at any given time.
We started in the Cathedral and like every other part of the tour, observed it from each geographic section. Down to the NW side through the Cloisters, Dining Hall (huge for 60 monks)and others sections. Observed the round hole in the ceiling below the Nave above where each stone was passed to build the cathedral. Then later the rope/chain pulley system that prisoners “walked the wheel” to haul stones, food, water, other supplies from the base far below.
All in all, not the most pleasant history from life as an ascetic monk to le Mont’s use as an end of the line prison across many centuries.
One interesting stop where you could put your left hand on the original rock to make a wish, but as our guide said, “Someone, please let me know if yours comes true. Maybe I’ve been doing something wrong all these years!!”
Anne and I hiked the 3km back in the brocage. Beautiful perspective on turning to look back as we got further and further away.
A quick stop to sample ciders and Calvados, then another st a cookie shop.
Back in Bayeux by 1630. An incredible, 4 course dinner later at Au Ptit Bistro – mine better known now as the “3 Camembert meal”!
Day ending with the amazing light and sound show on the huge Chene tree in the courtyard beside the Bayeux Cathedral. Themes of the accompanying sound (poetry, music, song, stories) was freedom & liberty.
Freedom. I write your name.
The secret of happiness is liberty.
The secret of liberty is courage.
How refreshing!!
Introducing SHE SAID
Thursday, August 23
Up early and off we went to Reine Mathide Hotel for a delicious buffet breakfast with eggs, ham, coffee, and pastries before meeting Sabrina and another couple for a day trip to Mont St Michel.
The countryside was beautiful and interesting. Beautiful hedgerows (bocages) divide the farmers fields. Manor Farms dotted the verdant landscape. When invasions were common, the manor farms, enclosed by high walls, could be self sufficient for a long time. Some even had chapels!
Chateaux replaced the manors when invasions were less common during the 17th century or so. And suddenly, Mont St Michel greeted our eyes, rising above the plains. Sabrina led us up the back way to the western Terrace, where an English-speaking guide took us through the Abbey. The views were spectacular and the history was fascinating and somewhat grim.
We wanted to walk the two miles back to the van rather than take the shuttle. We raced through the village hoping to find a bite to eat. Our hopes were in vain, so we crossed the fields with postcard views back at Mont St Michel on empty stomachs. We saw lambs grazing on the grass salted by the tides, creating the celebrated lamb ‘pré’- sale’ (pre salted), which sells out way ahead of slaughter. We made it back just in time.
Sabrina’s interesting commentary kept hunger at bay for a while. The fields were were beautiful and green, and we searched for the famous Norman cattle, the Charolais, white with brown splotches and brown “sunglasses“ around their eyes. The meat is excellent. They graze year on lush green grass year round in Normandy’s mild climate.
Fortunately, we stopped to taste Calvados and Apple cider products and Norman butter cookies, where I snagged a mushroom and cheese crepe with a delicious salad.
Back in Bayeux, after a brief rest in our room, off we went to Au P’tit Bistro for dinner. In general, Norman cuisine seems very bland to us spice lovers. Lots of butter and cheese, but no salt or spices.
Our dinner was again the 4 cheese courses meal. Much merriment and a fun evening with first class food. We started with a Pommeau aperitif and ended with an espresso. Imagine our delighted shock when the waiter brought out their complementary finish …Camembert macaroons!!
I had seen a sign about some sound and light program at the Cathedral courtyard, so we stopped in on our way back to the Logis. There was serious security to get in. The magnificent oak tree (sacred to the Druids) was bathed in lights and images reflecting the music of about 29 carefully chosen songs. The theme was Freedom – La Liberté. We saw scenes from the Little Prince (draw me a sheep) to “I have a dream” to Paul Eluard’s famous poem that starts “I write your name on my schoolbooks, my desk, the trees and so on “La Liberté”. To Fairies dancing on a tree, to psychedelic lights with the San Francisco hippy tune…and many others that I didn’t know. It was beautiful, moving, and uplifting. The people here clearly value Freedom, and the occupation is still alive in many memories.
Bed after 1 am!!!