Day 5 SOL & Monastery Yin by Ancient Sparta-Kardamyli Trail
Monday Sep 3
Early hoof up for stretching yoga practice at SOL, breakfast, further Yin discussions, a needed siesta, then off in George’s C70 Volvo up the steep mountain switchbacks, through Exohora (Adonis’s childhood village) to the ancient monastery. Its setting is beside the ancient trail from Sparta over the high mountain pass, then winding down beside a rare mountain stream, through mountain villages to Kardamyli far below. We parked by the stone “tollbooth” structure. Antonis’s family collected “payment in kind” from travelers long, long ago. Pirates were prevalent all along the Mani coast. A much wilder, harsher area.
Growing up, Adonis and his boyhood friends would run down the ancient path from Exohora to the beaches and caves far below for the day, 4-5 miles and >1500 foot elevation drop. About 30-40 min down at a fast boys’ pace; always the bus back home st the end of the day.
Adonis had previously cleared an area under a dense walnut grove for our practice and set up “seats” and a working table shelf with stones and flatter rocks.
Halfway through the practice, the cooler mountain air came floating down from the gap far above us. The sun began setting around the side of the mountain to our right. We heard the shepherd down the trail from us before his smart little border collie mix bounded into our circle, sniffing each of us and lying beside our mats for a pet or two. Then he was off like a flash with a shake of his little bell at the almost silent whistle from the shepherd down below.
Another exploration of the monastery and the monk’s very Spartan rooms. Apparently, a benefactor donated money for its renovation. Nearly 500 villagers and relatives will join for the annual festivities this year at the site and work together to repair and rebuild it. Next year it should look completely different.
On the wild trip down, Olga, Anne, and Emma danced in the back seat, top down to a new dimension – to the strong beats of Johnny Cash, Salsa, you name it. George had great music. We had a blast winding through the villages, always turning turning our way down.
A late night with George, Olga, and Emma and a Calvados on their villa patio I’d brought to share with him. Jasmine was in bloom and the scent was incredible. He and I walked to Ag. Nik. to bring back beer. Just a fun time catching up and sharing life experiences.