Approaching the southern port of Katapola, Amorgos
Ramp down, ready to offload Katapola
Katapola from near the crest of Amorgos
Mats and props ready for us in Ananda Shala
Relaxing Qigong
Saint Anne
Sunset rooftop meditation
Day 8 Ferry to Amorgos & Arrival Aegialis
Thursday Sep 6
All up for full Greek 5:30am breakfast at Triton. Bags in lobby, prechecked out thenight before. All 11 of us make our way through the crowds, buses and taxis to the Hellenic Seaways HighSpeed4 big (~1000 pax, ~180 vehicles) hydrofoil. Joined by the 6 others from Athens, our group of 17 was on our way to Amorgos with the 0715 departure!
Plenty of window seats to enjoy the view! We saw the Blue Star “Naxos” leaving ahead of us, headed to Paros, Naxos and Santorini – the very ship we’d be returning on from Amorgos. About 30 minutes later with Piraeus fading in the distance behind us, we easily passed the “Naxos” doing 36 knots (~41mph) to its ~25 knots.
Soon islands, shipping, yachts, other things of interest. We had good views out the windows but because of the speed, we were not allowed to go out on the small open deck aft – only for arrival and shortly after departure for the outside view.
This gave us all a chance to be with each other and catch up. Plus good internet connection via roaming cellular if needed all the way.
First port, Paros, then our familiar Naxos (we’d stayed there for 5 days last year and loved it), down the west coast and under the southern end of Naxos to Koufonisi, an island SE of Naxos, then the high peak and length of Amorgos started coming out of the haze.
We all headed for the loading deck to get our bags as we made our final approach to Katapola and lowered the ramp.
Our Aegialis Hotel & Spa bus and welcoming group was waiting for us. We loaded with another yoga group from Taiwan then headed north up over the high pass by the capital Chora.
Arrival at 1430 at Aegialis!! with a big group to welcome us! Checkin, rooms assigned, exploring and finalizing our group’s plans and logistics, then our first yoga practice in our Ananda Shala at 6 followed by sunset rooftop meditation at 7, then huge Greek buffet dinner at 8!!
Closing at SOL, final goodbyes, and on on the 0945 bus to Kalamata., then to Athens and Piraeus
Wednesday Sep 5
Packed out, put the bags in Adonis’s trunk, then we both hiked through the olive grove and up to SOL for final warmup session with Betty, early breakfast with Kerri, then closure and our goodbyes with the group.
Adonis took us to Ag. Nik for the 0945 bus. A quick fresh OJ with Adonis as the bus turned the far corner right on time. Great shot of the faceoff between the bus and the little car on the single lane waterfront street. The car backed out as the bus inched along to us.
Spectacular ride up the coast, passing all the familiar places we’d been.
Arrival Kalamata KTEL bus station shortly after 11, plenty of time to pick up our reserved tickets (under “Bill”), get a sandwich and make the 1230 Express bus to Athens.
The express bus was nonstop across the National Highway versus the regular bus which stopped at the Corinth Canal. We passed old haunts from last year (Acropolis of Ancient Corinth and the Corinth Canal), then through the burnt out pines, palms, and houses from the Kineta fire about a month ago. Traffic picked up as Athens neared, then suddenly, the Athens KTEL Station. Quick shift to taxi and on to Piraeus right to Hotel Triton.
Some in our Amorgos group had already arrived. 11 were staying at the Triton for the convenience of walking to the early morning ferry; 6 in Athens by taxi.
We found both of Anne’s sisters immediately, then walked to Gate 7 in the port to pick up our Blue Star tickets for the return ferry. Also, scoped out where the Hellenic Seaways HighSpeed4 hydrofoil would depart from. Finally, swung by the metro station to get tickets to Athens on return to beat the long lines of the ferry crowd on return.
A group Triton dinner of most of us staying there. The cook was on vacation but had left all the Traditional Greek dishes. As always, huge portions – “order for 1 eat for 2” Pastitio and Greek Salad.
Another sunrise hoof up to the SOL. Just great seeing the sunlight breaking over the olive grove then later over village of Ag. Nik far below. But my road up to the SOL from the main highway was blocked today by a herd of 30-40 sheep walking across it. They grouped up just behind the little church at the corner until the boy shepherd caught job up with them. He only had a short stick and threw rocks off to the sides of them to herd them onto the highway and into the olive grove a couple hundred yards further down. He needed a dog.
Gentle Betty yoga then picking the pace up more. Breakfast and the views, an early full Yin practice, then off on a trip to Limeni, far to the south for a mid afternoon lunch at Takns Tavern. A place so famous for its seafood that people drive to it from all over Greece.
We headed off initially with George and Olga. But before we’d even left sight of Ag. Nik., he lost power steering. A mechanic Adonis tracked down showed up in about 20 min. Came back with a spare battery after initial perfect analysis. Bad alternator. Interesting that the C70 was designed to drop systems one at a time as the computer sensed degradation in electrical power. Yesterday we’d lost the radio, then the AC, finally today the power steering. George and Olga stayed back to deal with it.
I rode down then with Paul from Germany in Betty’s tiny car. One of most exhilarating, terrifying rides of my life. Somehow, sometime got lost in the translation from Adonis to Paul. Adonis said give it gas before it starts to stall out on inclines. Paul interpretation was it needed great power and high revs all the time to maximize the engine performance. To me, there was zero room for error on the 180 curves as we climbed or descended, with not even a guardrail on most of them.
The tables at Takns were on the sea wall. As the wind and surf picked up, every now and then, a big wave would crash in with flying foam down the table. It only got better and better. Just a lot of fun as a group and incredible tastes.
Marinated anchovies, grilled sardines, grilled octopus, Takns Greek salad, fried calamari, giant shrimp and spaghetti, grilled whole fish in lemon spices, lemons for everything and beers and water were just hard to beat!
Back north for beach time at a beach just below Sir Patrick Leigh Femor’s house just south of Kardamyli. It was also made famous in After Midnight, the third movie of the trilogy with Ethan Hawke. Soft sandy bottom after the ricks on the beach.
A late leisurely 9pm final dinner at SOL, then a final walk home down the steep mountain road under a million stars with Emma, Paul, the Swedish girl’s Pernilla and Ann Sophia.
Day 5 SOL & Monastery Yin by Ancient Sparta-Kardamyli Trail
Monday Sep 3
Early hoof up for stretching yoga practice at SOL, breakfast, further Yin discussions, a needed siesta, then off in George’s C70 Volvo up the steep mountain switchbacks, through Exohora (Adonis’s childhood village) to the ancient monastery. Its setting is beside the ancient trail from Sparta over the high mountain pass, then winding down beside a rare mountain stream, through mountain villages to Kardamyli far below. We parked by the stone “tollbooth” structure.Antonis’s family collected “payment in kind” from travelers long, long ago. Pirates were prevalent all along the Mani coast. A much wilder, harsher area.
Growing up, Adonis and his boyhood friends would run down the ancient path from Exohora to the beaches and caves far below for the day, 4-5 miles and >1500 foot elevation drop. About 30-40 min down at a fast boys’ pace; always the bus back home st the end of the day.
Adonis had previously cleared an area under a dense walnut grove for our practice and set up “seats” and a working table shelf with stones and flatter rocks.
Halfway through the practice, the cooler mountain air came floating down from the gap far above us. The sun began setting around the side of the mountain to our right. We heard the shepherd down the trail from us before his smart little border collie mix bounded into our circle, sniffing each of us and lying beside our mats for a pet or two. Then he was off like a flash with a shake of his little bell at the almost silent whistle from the shepherd down below.
Another exploration of the monastery and the monk’s very Spartan rooms. Apparently, a benefactor donated money for its renovation. Nearly 500 villagers and relatives will join for the annual festivities this year at the site and work together to repair and rebuild it. Next year it should look completely different.
On the wild trip down, Olga, Anne, and Emma danced in the back seat, top down to a new dimension – to the strong beats of Johnny Cash, Salsa, you name it. George had great music. We had a blast winding through the villages, always turning turning our way down.
A late night with George, Olga, and Emma and a Calvados on their villa patio I’d brought to share with him. Jasmine was in bloom and the scent was incredible. He and I walked to Ag. Nik. to bring back beer. Just a fun time catching up and sharing life experiences.
SOL Center up ahead on the mountain above the olive grove path
Yin practice room at SOL Center
Our apartment in the distance by the fortress
Sunset in the Mani from SOL Center
Top down ride in George’s Volvo C70
Group dinner at an Ag. Nik. taverna!
Day 4 Spirit of Life Center, Agis Nikolaos
Sunday Sep 2
Dawn the olive grove path to SOL just as the sun touched the roofs of houses in Ag. Nik. The constitution ant sound of the church bells ringing from Ag. Nik. on the coast calling all, carries far up the mountain.
Another new practice after gentle yoga with lots lot long flowing stretches. Pick 3 concepts that you might like right now – e.g., exploring, grace, beauty, openness, calm, dance, flying, sharing, anything! – and put it to movement. Work your movement out. Then partner up and share one, at a time, other follows yours eventually. Switch. Very interesting way to communication care as ~70% of our communications are already nonverbal.
Breakfast on the terrace 0930. With this vegetarian diet, we realize are never hungry between meals. And the meals are not that big.
Yin philosophy discussions in the Center until about 1300, then a leisurely lunch on the terrace again. The Mani sun is very strong.
Afternoon group outing to a beautiful cove beach about 4 miles up the road, just north of Stoupa. Steep walk down road, path, steps to the water far below to set up our umbrellas and start swimming.
Almost dead calm and crystal clear aquamarine color and you could easily see 25-30 feet down. Just perfect for a leisurely swim. There was even a small snack bar and tables at the top of the steps from the beach.
Headed back about 1800 to the Center for the evening Yin practice, then a late night outside tavern dinner as a group in Ag. Nik. with the Greeks ordering dishes for the table, Greek family style.
Early hike again up the steep mountainside road in time for Betty’s Qigong practice at 8. Very refreshing as it got you moving in every direction. Also very stimulating to pat down every part of your body to get the blood flowing.
Our daily routine continued with breakfast at 0930 again. Have shifted to mountain tea for a “when in Greece” experience. It’s starting to grow on me! The very light yogurt with fruits is the mainstay and gives you enough energy to keep you going for the day.
Further Yin group discussions from 1100-1300, then spinach lasagna and tomato and olive salad lunch about 1400 with the long views of the coast.
We all piled into 3 cars and headed up the coast road to the beach at Kardamyli – actually the beach right next to Elies Hotel. We rode with Antonis who grew up in Exochora which means the village just outside the village Chora. It’s 8km way up in the mountains from a turnoff just south of Kardamyli. Many great stories of growing up and exploring the Mani – caves, favorite swimming holes, trails in the mountains, villages.
I walked over to the Elies to say hi to Seva, the beach girl, who did a double take and laughed. Then the dining terrace to say hi to Dimitra, Katerina, and Constantina. Dimitra lives in Ag. Nik. and had seen us listening to the music there with George and Olga the night before! Small world, the Mani!
Back for a shower and change then our 90 min evening Yin practice at 1815 in the SOL Center.
We agreed to experience a very interesting finding by one of Biff’s teachers, a famous anthropologist. She had observed patients in a children’s hospital to try and determine why the healing rate so so much higher than normal. What she discovered was that this was attributed to a single woman who wheeled a cart around to the children’s room to give them books, games, etc. but what she really did was to “acknowledge” the child in some small way every time that made the child feel valued and loved. “The squeaky wheel on your model airplane needs a squirt of oil.” Your eyes are the same beautiful blue as the cloth you are holding.”
This acknowledgement makes you feel good, raises your sense of self worth, and makes you healthier. We drew the name of someone in our group with the idea over our remaining days to acknowledge them but not in a way that they realize that they are the person whose name you drew. Then for our final circle, what each of us will write as a summary of the acknowledgements and others things about that person will be read to the group – maybe we will read it or maybe we will remain anonymous. It will be interesting to see how that plays out.
Tonight Greek salad, saganaki, hummus, eggplant purée with herbs, a chickpea and potato stew with herbs, and an incredible plum dessert with crushed walnuts, yogurt, cardamon, anise, and ginger! Incredible!!
Late night walk down the mountain road under the full bowl of the stars! All the autumn constellations are coming back!
We took the early morning hike up the steep mountainside road by a shortcut pat through the olive grove to the SOL for Betty’s Qigong practice. Its focus was on late summer movements that allow us all to move from our many travels to this beautiful place in the Mani.
A 0930 breakfast of yogurt, many fruits, pressed coffee, mountain tea, Mani breads and sweets with open views the terrace to the sea.
All together at 1100 again for introductions and Yin discussions. Folks again from all over – 1 Dublin, 2 Stockholm, 3 German small towns near Stuttgart and Munich, 2 Athens, 1 Eastern British Columbia, 1 Kalamata, Teachers VT and Kalamata, us VA.
1400 terrace lunch then all to the Ag. Nik. swimming hole in the sea. Long steps down, swimming off the rocks. 20-30 ft deep, again crystal clear aquamarine.
1730 off to the rocks down the coast for our Yin practice and dinner. Perfect for sunsets, then climbing out by starlight.
We went back to the seaside village with George and Olga from Athens for live Greek music and dancing. A late late night, after midnight, but great fun!
Last day! Already hate to be leaving. But remember that was our feeling every place we stayed in Greece last year! You get to know the folks, so open and friendly, and just start to cut through the surface of what’s available to do and enjoy.
In the open air lounge next to the dining area under the olives. Anne’s chatting up the couple from London who are moving into our room 18. Thei 4th annual visit to Elies! London-Kalamata and Paris-Kalamata flights both packed & doing a bang up business!
Almost flat calm out for our morning swim today. Clear as a bell. Depth very deceptive, it’s so clear! Hundreds of 🐠 ! Water’s fairly salty so you float high and easily! Makes swimming around a dream.
Late lunch, final beach time then we hooked arise with Antonis to Spirit of Life in Ag.Nikalaos, about 7 miles further south down the winding cliff road. He village is high up in the mountains to our left just past Kardamyli. As he said, this Mani part of Greece is the most beautiful in all of Greece. It’s high very rugged mountains are offset by the deep aqua blue of the Ionian. Wild feeling!
By 7 we had settled in our new place and walked up the steep hill to the SOL Center to meet all the others for our first vegetarian meal, followed by our first Yon practice with Biff.
Our walk back down was in complete dark with a million stars above. Nothing like finding all the constellations in Greece that the ancient Greeks named and made famous!
SHE SAID
I love the early (by Greek standards) mornings here. Dawn with its pale colors goes on and on. It is so lovely to linger here on out balcony in the cool air watching the aqua hued ocean (none of Homer’s wine dark sea here), & listening to the waves, the roosters crowing, and the dogs starting to bark.
And then BAM, the sun gets over the tops of the tall mountains, and the sea transforms to a dark blue just beyond the silver green olive trees and the darker green evergreens. The terrace is instantly hot, and we are seeking corners of shade before Bill goes down for our breakfast tray.
Strong sun today, not a cloud in the sky. Mid 80s. Bees found the honey at breakfast on the balcony, but not a problem.
Life has slowed way down here in the Mani. Didn’t wake up til past 8.
Water is crystal crystal clear today. Hundreds of curious, colorful fish feeding on the reefs. You dive for the bottom but then realize it’s 20-25 feet down!
In the Elies rhythm: going for breakfast, swim/beach time, late dinner about 2, siesta, late afternoon swim, sunset stroll, late light supper after 8, balcony stargazing.
Teapot & Scorpion are both setting now to the west out over the surf. Sounds of the surf have been in our subconscious all day long.
SHE SAID
Daily menu same, one for lunch, one for dinner, relatively seasonal. But like a restaurant, you can also order what you want within reason.
Sea bass, Greek salad, a great white wine and some graviera (which they translate as gruyère) for late supper. Happy to be back on the balcony for full stargazing. And listening to the waves. Since they come over rocks, a really good sound.
These are the kind of days we have needed a long time. The waiter said to us that he remembered we were leaving tomorrow. We said yes, and he said why, and I said that is what we are asking ourselves. Feel great that we landed here!!
Hard to define paradise. I find it here. Not really fancy, but great views from the rooms – mountains and seas. Not fancy food, but food of excellent quality and amazing; friendly service. Reserved beach chairs, waterfront with service if we liked, friendly staff who love helping us learn a little Greek. Long days of being in nature.
Absolutely beautiful view to walk out into each day on the way to get breakfast
Ripe squash in the garden at the bottom of our steps
Walking back with our breakfast
Sounds of the surf, roosters crowing, doves cooing at breakfast & before
Rain & mist from mountains off & on today
Full sun after today for the Mani.
Early swim to see the fish; towel for stray raindrops
Old Man Fishing. It’s what they do.
Umbrella stops light rain after swim. Kardamyli 2K meters away.
Iced Expresso, when on the beach in Greece!
Lunch decisions…so many great choices!
Full Sun/Light Rain…Devil’s beating his wife with a frying pan.
Dimitra’s new Greek word for the day for Anne – Kolokeeftokefakefthedes (zucchini balls)
Evening passagiata to Kardamyli and back!
Sunset Kardamyli Beach
Day’s about done!
Graviera w/apricots, aromatic salad w/smoked pork, sea bass over greens in cream sauce, Moschofilero from Mantinia (Tselepos)…one of our best meals ever!
HE SAID
Elies Hotel, Kardamyli
Tuesday Aug 28
Up about 8:30 again to all the sounds of rural Greece by the sea (surf, dove, roosters, chickens), then off for our breakfast. Still among the first.
Rain’s predicted today so we headed down for an early swim. Except for the surf, water was fairly calm and crystal clear. Swimming way out, we came across hundreds of small colorful fish, feeding in rock outcroppings, 15-20 feet below.
Light rain started about 11. Just beautiful looking back at the mountains, watching the mist & rain coming down toward us from them. Our umbrella kept us dry & shaded from the full sun as it moved in & out of the clouds. Soothing sounds of the surf and water in the rocks let us drift off very easily.
Dinner at 3 (our big meal – order for 1, eat for 2) – 2 starters: fava with capers & onions, grilled eggplant; roast pork w/Rosemary & potatoes, Mythos, & cold white grapes to finish. Tastes and flavors, hard to beat!
Late afternoon beach again…sun is back for good! A sunset stroll to Kardamyli and supper on return!
SHE SAID
Elies Hotel http://www.elieshotel.gr
Sun-Thu Aug 26 – 30
Been longing for this experience – a perfect storm that lets you stop in your tracks with nothing required of you except bathe in its perfection.
OK, someone has to walk down and get the breakfast tray, make the French press coffee so that you can enjoy breakfast on your balcony. And wash the dishes after. Elies can be self-catering and many families take advantage of it. But that’s about it.
After breakfast, down to the beach. The water is a stunning clear aqua and drops off quickly. Out by a shelf tiny brightly covered fish dart about and as you reach for them, you suddenly realize how deep it is. For me, the price of the swim is getting up the rocky incline to get out. I fear it is a scene reminiscent of Andrew Wyeth’s Christina! Maybe not a beautiful sight.
Relaxing some more, intending to master the Greek alphabet or learn some new words, but dozing, lulled by the gentle breezes and waves breaking on the rocks.
The chore of choosing a table in the dappled sunlit olive grove for lunch – our main meal. Or dinner as we called it in the South, growing up. A menu packed with Greek specialties – all perfectly prepared – and absolutely all the time in the world to linger over every morsel. Sated and relaxed, off for a siesta, escaping the heat of the day. Out and about around 4 – another swim, time on the beach or a walk to the village along the beach road. A spell on the beach or porch, watching the evening light on the mountains, before heading back to the olive grove for dinner, a lighter meal for us. Shared sea bass over greens- whatever they put on them was divine – shared salad, house white and that yummy cake sends us blissfully back to our room around 1130. La dolce du far’ niènte. Or à Spanish proverb “How sweet it is to relax and do nothing afterwards.”
Bill accidentally facetimed my Swiss sister from the beach. A new expression – “Sorry, a Butt-Face! 😂
