HE SAID
Tuesday 8/21
A rainy departure from Dulles to Paris on a huge AF A380 Airbus. Plenty of room, open seat between us, but soon relearned how fretting babies, kicking the back of your seat, tend to keep you half awake. Still caught a couple hours.
Wednesday 8/22
Our first glimpse of Paris was from the insides of two jam packed suburban train rides, burdened with backpacks and suitcases. Whatever you may hear to the contrary, everyone was eager to help keep our suitcases stable in the crowd and push people away so we could get out at our stops!
On changing RERs at the Gare du Nord, we found ourselves on the opposite platform. When we asked for directions, a woman led us on the labyrinthine journey all the way to the correct platform.
At the Gare St. Lazare, Anne chatted up a SCNF (National French train lines) security guard who’d been waiting for some excitement. We got the all levels, grand tour ending with tickets to Bayeux on the 1219 train. A long one! ~100 yards hoof beside it to car #9. Anne insisted we sit in our assigned seats (52, 59…beside each other!) even being mostly empty!
First stop 1400 at Caen, Bayeux at 1419, then Logis les Remparts, our B&B, 1450 after a stroll into Bayeux. Compact, beautiful city in the light!
Cristele gave us a warm welcome with Francois, husband and Patron. We felt we already knew her from emailing. We love their place! Following tradition, the Patron offered us cold bubbly hard (5%) cider with raisin/nuts and told us about his orchard (>3,000 trees).
Then off to explore Bayeux and the Bayeux Tapestry. A thousand year old, 70 meters of embroidered cloth telling the story how William the Bastard, then the Conquerer, became King of England. A long time desire of Anne’s to see.
Later, an easy walk down to ‘l Assiette Normandie for dinner, just across from the Cathedral – a Cristele recommendation for its good, traditional Norman specialties. Bill’s 3 courses all flavored with cider or Calvados; Anne’s starter a Camembert mousse salad. We ended with a wonderful set of Calvados tastings the Patron left in our room! A long, but interesting day!